This is in response to my good friend Will's mini-rant that kind of berated or at least disparaged Harlem a wee bit. It is a gem in the city and I will put it out there that for the most part it is a safe place and is quickly loosing the reputation it had in the 80s/90s pre-Disneyfied New York.
Aside from visiting my friends, who are increasingly moving to Harlem as prices rise, here are some highlights:
1. Go to church at Abyssinian Baptist Church on a Sunday morning. (132 Odell Clark Pl., W. 138th St.). It is one of the most famous churches in the world. Definitely the most famous in African American history. If the preaching doesn't make you a believer, then the women's extravagant Sunday hats will. I actually haven't done this since I was really young. I should go back. I need some Gospel music in my life.
2. Have a cup of coffee at Cafe Addis (435 W 125 St). I would walk from Columbia to here to get coffee and it was ALWAYS worth it. The Cafe Africano is the best cup of coffee in Manhattan (Aside from Scott's House). It is actually a beautiful place to sit and do work or read. Usually empty. Bring headphones though because every once in a while it turns into the Ethiopian social club and those men talk loud!
3. Go shopping. Every borough (I never include Staten Island when I say this, not as insult just because it lacks something thematic with the others) has that one section where you can shop for real on a budget. You can't find this season's latest coach bag, but you can probably find the knockoff for 10 bucks on the corner. Brooklyn has downtown near Jay St. Queens has the lovely Steinway St. right by me. The Bronx has Fordham Rd, which is perhaps the mother of all these strips, you can buy anything for any price there. Manhattan has 125th St. I have never taken the time to count all the Jimmy Jazzs on this block, but let me know if you have. If you don't know what Jimmy Jazz is, perhaps this shopping experience isn't for you. Point is you can run up and down 125th, spend 100 dollars and walk away with a new wardrobe. I would suggest stores if I knew their names. Honestly a shopper's best bet is to just set aside a lot of time and meander around. By the way, the street mango is excellent.
4. Eat at Strictly Roots. ( 2058 Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Blvd.) A favorite of mine for a while now thanks to Joe, this vegan, cafeteria-style restaurant is probably one of the best places to eat in New York City. It is good quality healthy TASTY DELICIOUS food, for less than 10 bucks. Perfect quantities. The decor includes revolutionary propaganda, dreadlocks, chess games, hipsters, and probably me. I would eat there if I was a meat lover. It is that good. DO NOT skip out on dessert.
5. Audubon Terrace and the Hispanic Society of America. (Broadway b/w 155th and 156th st) This I think is one of the least known nooks of the city. I'm not even going to post a picture. Just go and see it. I did a project on it for a class on Hispanic New York. That is the only way I know about its existence. It is a museum dedicated to Spain? With some Latin America in it? Anyway the architecture is beautiful, there is an amazing old map downstairs for all your cartographers, and the library has the original Don Quixote (you can't actually touch it, I have tried, you only get to see a copy). Admission is free but it closes a lot so check ahead. It's one of those things you go to alone and bring a camera or a sketchbook.
So in Harlem there are all these great historical sights etc. there but I usually just enjoy it for being one of the busiest liveliest neighborhoods this country has to offer. Especially on 125th street where someone is always about to get hit by a car, or a bike, or a really fast pedestrian commuter. That is more dangerous than getting mugged or anything like that. If you want that kind of action, you are too far South. Walk North. Or take the train to Far Rockaway or East New York. Guaranteed gun shots. :)
Well done with the rebuttal! I hope this starts a mini blog debate. Although I will have to agree with Will in that it is still not the fashion capital of the world.
ReplyDeleteP.S. Also still not a tourist attraction. It may have great things to do and see but lets face it, except for MJ tribute nights at the Apollo most tourists aren't going above 96th.
ReplyDeleteI wasn't trying to be down on Harlem, but it's very common for lifelong New Yorkers to not realize how little many non-New Yorkers know about the city. I've been told about "world famous" restaurants that a lot of people don't know about. Harlem definitely is getting better, but stories like that don't reach the newspapers and websites outside of New York, so the stigma is still there for most tourists.
ReplyDeleteThat being said.... IT'S ON NOW!
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