Only in Taos

The ride felt forever, but we made good time and stopped in Santa Fe to get lunch. I continuously sang that obnoxious Newsies song. We had absolutely no idea where we were going, but we found a cute street with the oldest house in America on it. It was closed indefinitely, probly becasue it looked like it was about to collapse. Next to the oldest house was the oldest church in America. It was built by Indians under the “care” of Spanish missionaries in “devotion to God.” I have such an intense disdain for missionaries. When I was in grade school I picked Elizabeth Ann Seton to be my patron saint and I gave some cheesy speech about how she was America’s first saint and a missionary who helped the Indians. I wish I could posses my seven-year-old body and talk about the destruction of cultures by these insane zealot people who thought the key to heaven was making people act like white people. I would have been kicked out of Catholic school and all the better for that.

Anyway, we asked some locals about where to eat and they suggested Del Charros. After passing a few blocks of overpriced artisan pottery shops, we had the best cheap meal of the journey. Well maybe it’s tied with In and Out and Taco Loco in Laguna. It was a real meal though, big servings, Lauren and I split a giant quesadilla and salmon wrap with pickled cucumber salad (so, so good) for only 5 dollars each. I HIGHLY suggest this restaurant if you find yourself in Santa Fe.

An hour to Taos and we ended up getting a little lost in the Mesa. We got the call that Madison took a turn for the worse and was put down. We all cried. This affected me more than I thought it would, probably because I felt an intense empathy for Gina, I don’t know what I would do if Daphne died. I selfishly prayed Aileen would have a dog, to distract Lauren and make us all feel a little better.

We got lost again in the town looking for Aileen’s job at a health club. Finally, we saw her waving to us in the street with bright, flaming red hair and a huge smile. She embraced us so warmly, I immediately just felt safe and kind of missed my mom. We got to use the pool at the health club to let out some energy. Taos is right near a Tiwa reservation pueblo, famous for being the oldest community in the U.S. So the Indians have infiltrated the neighborhood of Taos. Or the white people infiltrated them. I don’t know. Our first encounter with Native Americans: we ended up in a hot tub with a group of Tiwas telling them about our trip and listening to them speak in their language. Everyone was so disappointed that we were leaving the next day without seeing Taos. So disappointed that they convinced us to stay another day.

We followed Aileen back to her house in the most ridiculous car I have ever seen. It was a faded blue Buick from the 70s with a broken back windshield covered in plastic tarp. The Jetta coughed and struggled through the dirt roads of the Mesa. I started a habit of patting the dashboard when I hear the car growling at me. Aileen’s house was an Adobe style cottage surrounded by sunflowers and a backyard of mountains. That night we drank beers and had delicious sandwich melts with Aileen and her husband Joel on their deck outside. Their young Rottweiler, Ursa, had a habit of running from behind and jumping onto the couch we were sitting on. This never stopped being frightening. The house was…lived in. Here is a sample of what I can remember off the top of my head:

A mini fridge painted by a customer (Aileen barters things in return for childcare)

An altar dedicated to Java, a Labrador who died recently

Pictures of hare Krishna, Buddha, various hindu gods

A giant pilates ball

A red flyer wagon

Every kind of homeopathic health food store supplemental medicine

Books on France, divination, Native Americans, fantasy novels, and computer software manuals.

An old black pipe stove

Shells, crystals, gems, and heart rocks everywhere and a full cabinet of some kind of potions.

Rugs, skins, and woven blankets on the floor and walls.

Shitloads of bugs. Of all varieties. Everywhere.

Pictures of people everywhere. She would talk about someone she cared about and be able to disappear and come back with a picture of said person immediately. Actually there were many times she would disappear for a few minutes and come back with something awesome.

Aileen was one of the greatest people I have ever met. We just could not stop talking. Her energy was infectious. She explained why we were the way we were according the color of our chakras and the position of the stars. She loved us and we loved her.

The next morning we woke up, made oatmeal and had a real cup of pressed coffee. She took a picture of us making breakfast. We took a drive down to the Rio Grande gorge and went on a private little hike down to hot springs near the river. This used to be a spot where stage coaches would drop off passengers so there were old ruins of what used to be stores. It was once used as a place of respite for weary travelers, we continued the tradition. We relaxed in nature’s hot tubs and dipped our toes in the freezing Rio Grande. On a beach nearby we did yoga in our bikinis. It would have been perfect except bugs happen to love spiritually balanced people. I understand why people keep yoga in studios. We had the place to ourselves though.

On suggestion from a local we ate at the Guadalajara Grill and toasted with Negro Modelos. I had the best Mexican meal since I was in Mexico, unfortunately it reverted my stomach back into Mexico mode and the next two days were a little rough. IT WAS WORTH IT.

The pueblo was a series of shops trying to either rip off tourists OR try to survive in the poverty inflicted on them. Either way it was 600 dollars for a bracelet. Again another Catholic Church built by Indians under the command of the Spanish. At least there was a blend of the two religions. There were places restricted to tourists because of Kivas, the place for ancient ceremonial rituals. The Tiwas may attend church on Sundays, but Kiva land is actually sacred.

In the main square we saw thousand-year-old adobe buildings rising up like a staircase. However, we were distracted by all the little jewelry and craft shops on the first level. They had ridiculous names like, Desert Moon Jewelry, or Dancing Wolf Crafts. I was immediately drawn to one above the others. A paltry shop with a plank of wood hammered into the doorway that read, “Real Indian Stuff.” We went in to discover affordable gifts and a unique character who told us about the pueblo. There is no electricity or running water and everyone used buckets to get water from a river that runs through the middle of the plaza. Aileen later told us that she attended a funeral there and drank the water, which was the most clear, pure water she had ever tasted. The Tiwa jeweler showed us pictures of his father hunting in a loincloth that were featured in an out-of-print old book compiled by a forgotten anthropologist. He told us that his father actually lived like this, but now most of the Tiwas lived in homes outside the pueblo and only returned to the village to sell crafts. He sounded bitter about this and for a minute grew a little despondent. Then he distracted himself by hitting on Lauren. He gave us some good deals. We asked him if he made all the jewelry himself to which he replied, “No, I get it from the Mexicans.” I still don’t know if he was serious or not.

We then went up to Arroyo Seco, where Julia Roberts lives. It is a four-store town that seems to have been built around a celebrity. Adorably overpriced boutiques, yoga, sushi, pottery, and artesan ice cream. Taos Cow’s blueberry ice cream was phenomenal, but added to whatever was happening in my stomach. After this we had another night at Aileen’s, this time making jewelry together. She has been inspired by her silversmith classes and was passing her knowledge to us. Her generosity was unparallel. She gave us sandwiches, grapes, chocolate, pearls, beads, heart rocks (literally rocks shaped like hearts she collects and puts everyone in her house) and a fossil. A fossil as a parting gift. Only in Taos.

4AM. We are up and out towards the Texas panhandle. The drive through the mountains was dark and scary, but it kept me wake and listening to the Smiths perfectly soundtracked the sunrise.