What I thought was an inebriated slur was actually one of Philadelphia's great cultural traditions. MJ could only describe the Mummers parade as, "a bunch of guys that dress up in sparkly costumes." Lauren and I had one of those moments where you admit you've never seen Karate Kid or you ask who Wilt Chamberlain is. But I don't think we are alone. I am pretty sure unless you are associated with South-East Pennsylvania, or are really into strange American customs, Mummers is probably a mystery.
When we got to Broad St, there were a bunch of men and a handful of women dressed in colorful sequins, feathers, headpieces, and makeup. They looked like Marti Gras participants only there was no sex factor, more like creepy 19th century carnival meets Brazilian Carnaval. They were all smoking cigarettes and drinking coffee with their saxophone or banjo hanging limp and forgotten around their neck. It was awesome.
We walked toward City Hall where all the action is and just saw scores of big brawny men that looked right out of a Teamster Local, all dressed in sequins and makeup. They were drunk and smoking cigarettes, the crowd was drunk and smoking cigarettes, the children watching will in a few years be drunk and smoking cigarettes. Open container law suspended. No barricades, just people hanging out in sweaters, on lawn chairs. None of us had iPhones. So we were left with an antiquated feeling of wonder.
The name comes from the Mummers Play tradition of Great Britain and Ireland, popular in the 19th and early 20th century. They are a kind of fantastic morality play involving a magic cure, St. George as a hero, and cheap, ribald laughs. One of the first Philly settlers, the Swedes brought the New Years tradition of firing guns and reciting verse while traveling from house to house. Comedy and song in exchange for cakes and ale. The parade became an official city event in 1900. Today participants include social clubs in South Philadelphia, mainly located on "two" street. Why they can't say second street I don't know.
They are split into 5 categories:
Comics: Drunk men dressed up as clowns performing and dancing. Seriously, I think drunkenness is mandatory. I'm not sure.
Wench Brigade: Hardcore traditional mummers, no bands, just bawd. Lots of tiny frilly umbrellas.
Fancies: The most elaborate costumes, often defying the basic weight-bearing laws of physics and the basic pride-carrying laws of dignity.
String Bands: Think hundreds of men in pink lipstick picking banjos. Full on orchestras, none of them allowed to be professional musicians. I suppose Pennsylvania might be the only place in the North East that can boast so many voluntary banjo players...that will dress in drag...with serious faces on. Awesome.
The Mummers of Yesteryear:
Mummers facts (according to Wikipedia and their official site):
1. Over 395,000 dollars are awarded in prizes, which by no means covers the expenses of the costumes. It costs about 25,000 dollars to outfit an entire band. Union dues probably go to making them.
2. A big tradition was black face. They stopped that somewhere in the 1960s. Kind of. Apparently they still do it.
3. African Americans used to have their own divisions and actively participate. This mysteriously ended in 1929 and I didn't see a single black participant in 2010. Evidence that they may still be banned today.
4. The theme song was composed by an African American: James A. Bland's Oh! Dem Golden Slippers
5. Mummers comes from the German word mumme which means disguise or mask.
3. Women were not allowed to participate until 1970.
Great Mummers quotes:
"I wish you No. 2." ~ official Mummer greeting.
"Lots of broken marriages because of string bands."~Member of the Italo-American Bocce Social club of Philadelphia.
"I guess you just have to be born a Mummer" ~Women on SEPTA after the parade.
"Can ya at least help me up?" ~Mummer who drunkenly fell over into a flower bed on Broad St. at 1 pm. I took a picture of him.
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